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Distilled by Barton 1792 on behalf of Total Wine, Wolcott Bottled-in-Bond is a cousin of Costco's Kirkland Bottled-in-Bond and the bonded version of 1792. Barton does a huge number of other private bottlings while at the same time many of the 1792 branded iterations have become difficult to find. It is worth noting that the Wolcott brand has changed producers over the years. The version that won double gold in the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in 2022 was produced by Buffalo Trace. There are still a few of those floating around, so it's definitely worth checking the label for collectability (thankfully these Barton bottles have it emblazoned in big letters on the front). Both distilleries are owned by Sazerac, so it is unlikely that the mash bill has changed though the equipment itself can impact the flavor.
🛒Sourced: $36.99 on sale, normally $39.99 - Total Wine, GA 750ml - Note that this is roughly 2x the price of Kirkland Bottled-in-Bond (1L bottle) and about $10 cheaper than the 1792 Bonded.
🧪Proof: 100 proof, 50% ABV - in accordance with the Bottled-in-Bond Act
🎨Color: R3 - More yellow than I tend to expect from a bourbon. Around where I would expect a four-year and nothing more bourbon to be, the color of a setting sun.
🥔Mash Bill: Not disclosed. Known to be a high rye mash bill, likely something like 75% Corn, 15% rye, 10% barley. Aged four years per the Bottled-in-Bond Act and no caramel coloring added. Batches are all juice from the same year. Wolcott labels these with Series numbers, in this case #126, though they seem to be serial identifiers and not based on a date code. All of the bottles in my store were form the same batch (not a surprise) and I would anticipate them being large batches to boot.
👃Nose: Easy-going with some vanilla, cherry, and cinnamon. Quite approachable. Some ethanol funk. After resting the glass longer, I can get some coco powder and malt.
😜Palate: Somewhat thin but not wholly without viscosity, true to nose with young oak and red fruit which then ends in a flare of white pepper with some mild heat, oven ready chocolate chip cookie. Rough edges are a little punishing if you over-sip. The pom fruit is my highlight and there is a certain corny nuttiness on the aft palate.
💦Finish: Very short from a flavor perspective but with a decent amount of chest heat that builds over time, particularly after a few sips that lasts more for a medium duration. A little bit of rye spice and last blast of vanilla.
🏆 Overall: 5.75/10 - Flaws partially offset by interesting flavors - I've been putting this review together at the same time as a difference test with Kirkland Bottled-in-Bond which has amounted to being quite a good bit of whiskey over a relatively short period. There is nothing crazy out of the ordinary with either bottle, but I enjoy this honest Wolcott iteration of Barton juice and have been impressed with the depth of flavor in what is otherwise an almost thin pour. Wolcott Bottled-in-Bond does what it sets out to do. In the whiskey world, there are many worse house brand bottles.
💵Would buy again? Nope, the Kirkland Bottled-in-Bond is far cheaper and essentially the same. If for some reason Costco was out of BiB, I'm perfectly happy with a 1.75L of Evan Williams for under $30. If you are a huge 1792 fan and can't find the BiB, then perhaps this is worth considering. The best value in the Wolcott Family is likely the Rickhouse Reserve.
⚖️Rating Scale:
2 | Poor | I wouldn’t consume it by choice.
3 | Bad | Multiple flaws | Struggle to get through the bottle
4 | Serviceable | Mixing or ice recommended.
5 | Good | Drinkable Neat | An agreeable dram indeed.
6 | Very Good | Any flaws offset by interesting flavors | A cut above.
7 | Great | You find yourself reaching for this one often | Well above average.
8 | Excellent | Serve to Impress Guests | Really quite exceptional.
9 | Incredible | An all time favorite | You guard this bottle jealously.
10 | Perfect | You didn't think anything could be this good | A clear champion.