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Distilled by Barton 1792 on behalf of Spirits Direct, Total Wine's private label brand, Wolcott Rickhouse Reserve is an elevated proof iteration of the standard Wolcott bourbon. Barton does a huge number of other private bottlings while at the same time many of the 1792 branded iterations have become somewhat difficult to find. The most comparable bottles are likely 1792 Full Proof and Kirkland Single Barrel, both quite elusive these days and packing a handful of extra proof points. It is worth noting that the Wolcott brand has changed producers over the years from Buffalo Trace to Barton 1792 in 2022. Both distilleries are owned by Sazerac, so it is unlikely that the mash bill has changed though the equipment itself can impact the flavor and aging conditions in the rickhouse will differ as well. The Barton editions have their lineage marked clearly on the front label if you have any question and this particular richouse reserve iteration was introduced after the distillery switch. In any case, the lot sizes for these are likely quite large so there shouldn't be too much nuance between batches.
🛒Sourced: $38.99 on sale, normally $42.99 - Total Wine, GA 750ml - a
🧪Proof: 120 proof, 60% ABV - a full 30 proof above the standard Wolcott Bourbon. We don't have any additional marketing info suggesting these are special picks or in any way differentiated beyond their proof (which makes me believe that there likely isn't any extra magic).
🎨Color: Y5 - Sunset, legs maybe a little thinner than expected but still evident.
🥔Mash Bill: Not disclosed. Known to be a high rye mash bill, likely something like 75% Corn, 15% rye, 10% barley. No age stated so at least four years as straight bourbon. Barrel entry proof for 1792 is 125. Batch Series is noted as #182.
👃Nose: Hefty with plenty of proof, caramel, baking spices, and a bit of black cherry. At first, I was a little overwhelmed, but it is actually pretty nice after warming up the ole sniffer.
😜Palate: Hot! Though I'm not sure if it is more due to proof, age, or mash. The rye character is definitely pronounced and more forward on the palate than I'm accustomed for a bourbon. I do get a solid dose of the caramel mid-taste that transitions into sweet dates/cherry. In the transition to the finish there is an earthy funk, almost what I'm used to in higher proof Beam editions, leather, dry hay, and worked wood.
💦Finish: A long hug that maintains the initial temperature, some woody sweetness but mostly white pepper and the earth notes.
🏆 Overall: 6.25/10 - Great, Better than I Expected - Wolcott editions tend to be younger and less "on-profile" than their 1792 cousins, so I wasn't completely sure what to expect out of this Rickhouse Reserve. As a high-rye and high-proof offering, it was going to be hot on the palate, but I was pleasantly surprised by how much flavor and nuance there was. Braced for the heat, there is a lot going on in the early or barnyard section of flavors. You can still find the distinctive Sazerac cherry and the sweetness is very appealing. As your tongue wakes up, the heat becomes pretty bearable neat and I found myself pouring another dram with alacrity. Compared to the 1792 Full Proof, it is definitely less fruit forward and a tick or two rougher around the edges, but for the money and ease of acquisition, this bottle is a solid substitute.
Will update shortly with comments on it over ice.
💵Would buy again? If there's a good sale or I need to hit the minimum Spirits Direct purchase to get free shipping from Total Wine, sure!
⚖️Rating Scale:
2 | Poor | I wouldn’t consume it by choice.
3 | Bad | Multiple flaws | Struggle to get through the bottle
4 | Serviceable | Mixing or ice recommended.
5 | Good | Drinkable Neat | An agreeable dram indeed.
6 | Very Good | Any flaws offset by interesting flavors | A cut above.
7 | Great | You find yourself reaching for this one often | Well above average.
8 | Excellent | Serve to Impress Guests | Really quite exceptional.
9 | Incredible | An all time favorite | You guard this bottle jealously.
10 | Perfect | You didn't think anything could be this good | A clear champion.